“赤水河之旅”散记（五题）
Sketches of The Travel to Chishui River
朝辞茅台渡
At dawn We left the Maotai ferry
走进你，便走进一种凝重而古朴的意境，走进一种神奇而遥远的幻梦。——题记
When I walk into you, just like walking into a kind of dignified and quaint mood of scene, into a kind of magical and distant illusion of dream. -- superscription
端午过后，湍急的赤水河一改往日的澄碧纤秀，变得浑浊而粗犷起来。
After the Dragon Boat Festival, the turbulent Chishui River has changed from its former clarity and beauty to muddy and rough.
6月13日，一个极普通而又非同寻常的日子。
June 13, an extremely ordinary but unusual day.
早上起来，仁怀市中枢镇似乎还阴雨绵绵，昨夜一场薄雨将这座百废待兴的县城冲洗得清秀雅致了几分。
In the morning, Zhongshu town which is in Renhuai City seems to be rainy, last night this leaden county was cleaned by a thin rain, which made the county become a little elegant.
用完早餐，急急挤上老吉普直奔茅台镇，车到半路，窗外骤然间不见了雨点，只有几丝乌云野鹤般闲挂在半空中，迎面吹来的风好像也柔和了许多。
After breakfast, I squeezed on an old jeep hastily and went to Maotai town straightly. When the jeep was on the halfway, the rain out of the window suddenly disappeared. There were only a few dark clouds which like wild cranes hanged idly in the sky and the wind blew on the face seemed to have softened a lot.
等在目的地停住车，天便彻底放晴了。一抹艳阳将近在咫尺的赤水河辉映得琉璃般溢彩流光。
When we stopped the car at the destination, the sky was completely clear. The Chishui River, which close to us was glowing like a glass of color reflected by a bright sun.
一拨人就高兴得有些手舞足蹈了起来。
A group of people then jumped with joy.
上午10点零8分，一个庄严而神圣的时刻。18名“猛男烈女”一字形排开，由一面猎猎作响的红旗引领，地区旅游局局长黄先荣打头，从红军长征三渡赤水的遗址——茅台渡欣然登船，朝金沙方向逆流而上，拉开了97中国旅游年“赤水河之旅”采风活动的序幕。
At 10:08 a.m., a solemn and sacred moment, we kicked off the 97th China Tourism Year "Chishui River Journey" folk custom collecting activity. Under the leading by Huang Xianrong, director of the regional tourism bureau,18 "fierce men and women" lined up in a single line, led by a red flag. Then we boarded the boat gladly from the Maotai ferry, the site of the Red Army's Long March through the Chishui River three times. The boat was headed upstream towards Jinsha,
此次活动由地区旅游局、仁怀市旅游局联合主办，得到中共遵义地委、行署的首肯和仁怀市四大班子的大力支持和协助。采风团由全地区各新闻文化旅游单位的18名作家记者及旅游工作者组成，规模之浩大，阵容之整齐，在全地区旅游采风活动中尚属首次。
This activity was jointly sponsored by the regional tourism bureau and Renhuai City Tourism Bureau, approved by the CPC Zunyi regional committee and the executive branch, and strongly supported and assisted by four major teams (The four major teams are the leadership groups of government departments at all levels from the central to the county and district. The first is the leadership team of the Party Committee; the second is the leadership team of the National People's Congress; the third is the leadership team of the government; and the fourth is the leadership team of the Chinese People's Political Consultative Conference) in Renhuai City. The tour group consisted of 18 writers, journalists and tourism workers from various news and cultural tourism units in the region, the scale and the lineup of this activity were so large and complete that could rank the first in the region's tourism activities.
担任采风团团长的黄先荣局长临行前给大家交了一个底：本次活动以仁怀为限，通过对赤水河流经该地的119公里沿岸的自然风光、民风民俗、旅游资源、人文景观等等的实地采风考察，让更多的遵义人民熟悉和了解赤水河中游的情况，从而为国家旅游局1997年制定的97中国旅游年精选线路遵义——茅台——赤水的尽快推出打好基础。
Huang Xianrong, who was the head of the tour, told everyone the real intentions of this activity before the trip: the scope of this activity was limited to Renhuai, through the field explorationsof natural scenery, folk customs, tourism resources, humanistic landscape, etc. along the 119-kilometer coast where the Chishui River flows, so that more people in Zunyi familiarize and understand the situation in the middle reaches of the Chishui River, in this way, they can lay a solid foundation for the launch of the well-chosen line, Zunyi - Maotai - Chishui of 97 Chinese tourism year as soon as possible that the National Tourism Administration formulated in 1997.
赤水河——黔北高原的母亲河、英雄河、美酒河！你不仅哺育了以周林、韩念龙、秦川等名将文豪为代表的千百万勤劳勇敢的优秀儿女，也因红军长征四渡赤水的伟绩载入共和国的史册，成为世界军事史最不可思议的一则神话，同时，更因国酒茅台为中国博大精深的酒文化添下最浓最重的一笔而饮誉海内外……如今，面对着带有太多神秘色彩却无语自流的你，我们还能诉说什么？
Chishui River - the mother river, the hero river and the wine river of Qianbei Plateau! You not only nurtured millions of hard-working and brave children represented by Zhou Lin, Han Nianlong and Qin Chuan, but also became one of the most incredible myths in the world military history due to the great achievements of the Red Army's Long March across the Chishui River, and at the same time, Moutai, the national wine, has become famous at home and abroad for its great significance to China's profound wine culture. ...Now, in the face of too many mysterious but you are speechless , what else can we say?
航船启动了，我的心一下子被带到更深更远的地方……
The ship motored, and my heart was immediately taken deeper and further away ......
露宿扯水坝
Camping at the Cheshui dam
游轮昂首挺进。茅台镇高耸入云的现代化大厦和造型别致的酒榭茶阁被远远抛在身后。站在船头远眺，八百里赤水河时而如一条碧中泛黄的玉帛，在如叠的秀峦中婀娜飘曳，河心偶尔翩过的白鸽仿佛投影其中，浑成一幅浓淡相宜的水墨画；时而如一把沾满铜锈的古剑，在如削的峭岩间左冲右突，一片森森剑气直逼眉睫……
The cruise ship kept advancing. The towering modern buildings and chic wine and tea pavilions in Maotai Town were left far behind. Standing on the bow of the boat, overlooking the 800 miles of Chishui River, sometimes it liked the jade silk with blue and yellow, swaying in the stack of beautiful mountains. Occasionally, some white doves fluttered in the middle of the river and the river seemed to project them, which composites a suitable ink painting. Sometimes it liked a rusty ancient sword, plunged forward on this side, dashed in on that side in the sharp cliffs , a kind of eerie sword directly to the eyebrows ......
不觉已近黄昏。船泊扯水坝，一行人跳将下来便兵分几路各自忙开，砌灶、捡柴、烧水、剖鱼……不亦乐乎。
I did not realize that it was almost dusk. The boat was moored on the Cheshui dam, a group of people jumped down and divided into several ways to prepare the dinner, build stoves, collect firewood, boil water, cut fish ...... They all enjoying themselves so much.
扯水坝，一个有趣的地名。我们赖以歇脚的，其实是一片鹅卵石遍布的河滩。趁着野炊前的一点空隙，韩可风建议何不乘船渡河，去对岸农家小院采风？袁仁庆、谢鸿霞与我欣然应允。
Cheshui Dam, an interesting name for a place, where we rested was actually a pebble-strewn riverbank. Before the picnic, Han Kefeng suggested we could take a boat across the river and go to the farmhouse on the other side to collect folk customs. Yuan Renqing, Xie Hongxia and I agreed with pleasure.
河对面是一匹屏风般的大斜坡。顺着羊肠小道艰难爬行数十米，眼前突然出现一片开阔地，点点农舍、几垄田畴掩映在树影婆娑之中。我们四人在丛生的荆棘中茫然四顾的当儿，陡见几步之遥的前方高低错落地站着三姐妹，正满脸惊诧地瞪着我们。
Across the river was a large screen-like slope. Climbing along the narrow trail for dozens of meters, an open field suddenly appeared in front of us, dotted with farmhouses and a few fields hidden in the shadows of the trees. When the four of us looked around in the thicket of thorns, we saw three girls standing in front of us a few steps away. They staggered in height and stared at us with astonishment.
老大约莫十六七岁，五官精致小巧，秀发齐耳，着一件碎花衬衫，颇有几分江南村女的神韵。老二约莫十一二岁，老三却只有七八岁。
The oldest is about 16 or 17 years old, with delicate and cute features, hair flush with the ears, with a floral shirt, quite a bit of the charm of the village girl in Jiangnan. The second is about 11 or 12 years old, but the third is only 7 or 8 years old.
顿时来了兴致。七嘴八舌地问将起来。最后，可风狡黠地试探到她们屋头坐坐行不？三姐妹犹豫一下，便爽快领着我们这帮不速之客去了附近家中。
We were curious about them, so we asked them many questions. Finally, Kefeng asked them cunningly:”Can we come inside your house, okay?” The three sisters hesitated, then they led us, a group of uninvited guests to their nearby home nicely.
这是一家黔北普通农村小杂院。土墙青瓦，虽只有四、五间小茅房，却布局井然，结构甚为合理。门外零星堆放着一些烧火用的茅草，屋檐上一串串金色的老玉米显眼地垂挂着；屋内由于没有通电，见不着现代化的电器，各类陈设虽旧，但古朴中显露殷实，简陋中暗藏富裕，看得出主人的勤劳与精干。
This is a small rural compound in the north of Guizhou Province. Although there were only four or five small huts with earthen walls and green tiles, the layout was well organized and the structure was very reasonable. Outside the door, there were some thatched grasses for burning, and a bunch of golden old corn hanged conspicuously on the eaves; inside the house, there was no electricity, no modern electrical appliances, and all kinds of furnishings were old, but the simplicity of the showed the rich, and the wealth was hidden in the simplicity, which showed the owner's hard work and competence.
一进门，老二老三擦桌扫地端茶敬水地忙开了，老大则腼腆地坐在一旁陪着。见家中大人不在，一问方知下地未归，我们闲扯几句，与三姐妹合影数张便告辞而返。回到宿营地，不经意的一抬头，依稀可见对岸高高山坡上，三姐妹向我们投来遥远而善意的笑颜。
When we entered the house, the second and third were busy wiping the table, sweeping the floor and serveing tea and water, while the oldest sat shyly by the side. Seeing no adults were at their home, we enquired and then found that they had not returned from the field, so we made some small talk and took a few pictures with the three sisters before leaving. When we returned to the campsite, we looked up inadvertently and could see the three sisters smiling distantly and kindly at us from a high hillside on the other side of the river.
野炊过后是篝火大联欢，地点就在对面山顶的空坝上，旁边是一座颓然欲倾的破山庙。从此处向下望去野炊过后是篝火大联欢，夜幕下的赤水河如一位纤纤玉女，从渺不可及的地方款款而至，那一袭青春的秀发瀑布般优雅地弥漫开来……
The picnic was followed by a bonfire party, which was held on the opposite hilltop of the empty dam, next to a decrepit and broken mountain temple. Looking down from here, the Chishui River at night was like a slender woman, arriving from an inaccessible place, with a waterfall of youthful hair elegantly diffused ......
熊熊的篝火燃烧起来，一拨人尽情地唱啊跳啊，百来个乡亲像过节一样从方圆几十里纷纷赶来，一张张黝黑的脸庞闪现出纯金的光芒——这块蛮荒古朴的土地第一次深深感受到了现代文明的冲撞与震撼。篝火晚会一直持续到午夜1点。
The roaring bonfire was burning, while a group of people sang and danced to the fullest. A hundred or so folks came from dozens of miles around like celebrating a festival, and their swarthy faces shone with pure gold -- for the first time, this barbaric and ancient land deeply felt the impact and shock of modern civilization. The bonfire party lasted until 1:00 midnight.
回到露营的河滩，与可风、建武躺在乱石上，一边数着天上的星星，一边喝酒闲聊至凌晨，真正体味着风餐夜宿的野趣……
When we back to the camping river beach, I laid on the rocks with Kengfeng and Jianwu. We counted the stars in the sky, drank and chatted until the early hours of the morning, truly savored the fun of staying in the wild overnight......
受阻龙胜滩
Blocked by the Longsheng Beach
在世人心目中，茅台河上游无疑是一个难解之谜：为什么周恩来总理生前一再指示此处不能搞任何形式的工业开发以免造成人为的生态环境破坏？为什么从此间流下的河水能酿造出香飘万里的世界第一流蒸馏白酒？
In the minds of the world, the upper reaches of the Maotai River is undoubtedly a difficult mystery: why did Premier Zhou Enlai repeatedly instructed that this area should be prevented from any form of industrial development to avoid causing man-made ecological damage? Why can the river water flowing down from here brew the world's first-rate distilled liquor with a fragrance for thousands of miles?
她的神奇，她的美丽，一直诱惑着人们瑰丽的梦境。
Her magic, her beauty, have always seduced people's magnificent dreams.
如今，我们踏着跨世纪的步伐，就要去解开她冥思千载的谜底了。
Now, we are going to step across the century to solve the mystery that she has been meditating for thousands of years .
6月14日晨8时许，“仁监1号”在微微曦光中，从扯水坝继续前行。
At about 8:00 a.m. on June 14, "Renjian No.1" continued its journey from Cheshui Dam in the faint light of the sun.
这艘船是仁怀市航运监督站最豪华的机动铁船，长约10米，船窗为铝合金蓝玻，内设两排可容二十余人的竹椅。船长胡四毛人到中年鬓发染霜依然气壮如牛，一看便知是个终日在水上滚打的硬角儿。
This ship, which was the most luxurious motorized iron ship, belonged to Renhuai City Shipping Supervision Station,about 10 meters long, The material of the windows is aluminum blue glass, with two rows of bamboo chairs that can accommodate more than twenty people. Hu Simao , the captain of the boat, who is in middle age and the temples turned gray but still strong as an ox. Obviously, he is a master hand who knows the water well.
一小时后左右即到女儿滩。女儿滩是赤水河上游四大滩王之一，民谚云：女儿滩杀气腾腾/牛儿滩雾气沉沉/簸箕滩愁云滚滚/龙胜滩吓死活人。此处山高滩陡渺无人烟，哪有一丝半点女儿的温柔贤淑？河水疾如劲矢，将开足马力迎面驶来的船儿射得东倒西歪左右难以招架。胡船长成竹在胸，招呼大伙“起滩”（船家行话，即遇险起身下船之意）后，大喝一声跳将下去，兀自在齐胸的湍流中推船前进。此时，只见他如山的身躯崩如弯弓，凸现的肌肉群在不断拍打而过的浪花中闪烁出生命最强的光芒和力度，在瞬间凝固成一尊鲜活而感人的艺术雕像。
After an hour or so, we arrived at the Maiden Beach. Maiden Beach is one of the four major beaches in the upper reaches of the Chishui River, and the proverb says: Maiden Beach is precipitous; Cattle Beach is foggy; Dustpan Beach is cloudy; Longsheng Beach is appalling. This beach is uninhabited with high mountains and steep beaches, where we couldn’t perceive any tenderness of it. The river water is as fast as a strong arrow and the oncoming boat that went full steam ahead was shot reelingly and difficult to fight. Captain Hu was ready, summoned the group to "up the beach" (boatman jargon, it means, get up and off the boat in danger). After a shout, he jumped down and pushed the boat forward in the chest-high turbulence. At this time, we saw his mountainous body collapsed like a curved bow, the protruding muscle groups flashed the strongest light and strength of life in the continuous beating waves, and in an instant he solidified into a vivid and affecting art statue.
众人见状，纷纷下水，赤脚裸臂地奋力拉纤，一时人头攒动人声鼎沸，喊号的声音铿锵激越，在寂寂河谷里如此动人心魄地久久回荡……
Saw this, people all jumped into the water, bared their feet and arms to pull the rope. For a moment, there was crowded and ablare, the sound of shouting was powerful and exciting, which was so moving and reverberated for a long time in the silent river valley ......
终于涉险成功！然而，不等我们真正喘过气来，最大的“滩王”——龙胜滩到了。
Finally, we succeeded in wading through the danger! However, before we could really catch our breath, we arrived at the biggest "King of the Beach" - Longsheng Beach.
事实上，这是一处景色绝妙之地：两岸峻峰对恃直指青天，透过葱郁的灌木，一条国画般的小溪依稀而降，不足百平米的河滩前后界限分明，前段怪石嶙峋，后段细沙如毯。可我却从静卧成龙的远山和金戈铁马的近水中，分明感觉一种隐隐的杀气迎面扑来。
In fact, this is a wonderful place of scenery: the steep peaks in the two two banks pointing straight to the sky, through the lush shrubs, a national painting-like creek descends vaguely, the beach that less than 100 square meters, its front and back boundary is clear, there are strange rocks in the front section and fine sand like a carpet in the back section. But I felt a vague murderous atmosphere coming towards me from the distant mountains and the near water.
起了滩，一伙人面带倦意沿河缓缓步行，这时候船以最大马力全速前进，二十几号特意从当地请来的精壮劳力拉着纤，一步一叩首地艰难前行。在这最紧要的关头，赤水河终于揭下她含情脉脉的面纱，露出摧枯拉朽的剽悍和横扫一切的霸气，澎湃之水恰似千军万马遍天是火地冲杀过来……
After”up the beach”, a group of people with tired faces slowly walked along the river, the boat at full speed with maximum horsepower at this time, some strong laborers pulled the rope who were we specially hired from the local in 20th, step by step, they were hard to move forward. At this most critical moment, the Chishui River finally unveiled her veil of love and affection, revealing a devastating swashbuckling and a sweeping impact, the surging water just like a thousand armies of horses came charging ......
“糟啦！糟啦！”“完了！完了！”
"Oh no! Oh no!" "It's over! It's over!"
人群中突然爆发几声惊叫。悚然回首，见对岸那帮纤夫被一股无法抗拒的强力掀翻在地，纤绳猛地滑落，船如醉汉般飞速踉跄后退，“哗啦啦！”“哗啦啦！”一阵排空的巨浪兜头打来，将庞大的游船像小玩具般抛起又吞没，那船最后挣扎了几下，便斜斜地撞在对岸的礁石上一动不动了……
The crowd suddenly broke out a few shrieks. Looking back in horror, we saw those boat trackers on the other side of the bank were overturned by an irresistible force to the ground, the rope slid off violently, the boat stumbled backwards as fast as a drunken man, "Clatter!" "Clap, clap, clap!" A row of huge waves hit our heads, the huge boat like a small toy was thrown up and swallowed, and, finally struggled a few times, and then slanted on the rocks of the opposite shore and did not move ......
这是我有生以来第一次亲眼见着的悲壮场面。侧目而视，猛男悍女们一个个瞠目结舌呆若木鸡，神情恍惚地站在原地。
This was the first time in my life I witnessed the tragic scene. When I looked to my side, these fierce men and women were jaw-droppingly dumbfounded, stood in suit in a trance.
逆流而上的采风活动在此便划上一个遗憾的句号。其实，只要一过龙胜滩，金沙便在不远的地方向我们招手了。
The collecting activities that against the current here would be ended with regret. In fact, as soon as we crossed the Longsheng Beach, the Jinsha would not be far away from us.
幸好船未遭毁灭性的破坏，只受了点“皮外伤”。晚饭与胡四毛他们红着眼大碗喝酒大口吃肉，用诗人陈春琼的话说，只差没有“大称分金银”了。
Fortunately, the boat was not devastated, only suffered a little "superficial injuries". At dinner time, we drank liquor with big bowls and ate the meat take big piece with Hu Simao in our red eyes, in the words of the poet Chen Chunqiong, we just not "share the gold and silver with big weight".
等着吧，龙胜滩，总天一天你会被后人征服的！
Just wait, Longsheng Beach, one day you will be conquered by the future generations!
风雨沙滩情
The Affection in the Stormy Beach
龙胜滩受阻，采访团只得在此驻扎一宿。翌日一早，船掉头直下，不足三小时便漂回茅台。
Blocked by the Longsheng Beach, the interview group had to stop here for the night. The next morning, the boat turned around and went straight down, we spent less than three hours on the way
至此，我们历时两天才完成近60公里的逆水行舟，其间穿山越岭，趟沟涉壑，拉纤喊号，野炊露营……旅途之艰难，远远超出常人的想象。
So far, it took us two days to complete boating route that nearly 60 kilometer. During the process, we through the mountains, ditched and ravines, pulled the rope and shouted the slogan, had picnic and camping ...... The hardship of the journey is far beyond the imagination of ordinary people.
在中枢镇休息一天，6月16日，一行人再度出山，朝茅台下游沙滩开拔。
We rested a day in the Zhongshu town. On June 16, we went out of the mountains again, and set out toward the downstream beach of Maotai.
因修茅习公路，泥沙大量淤积，致使茅台渡以下的河段被迫停航。我们只得挤上老吉普，在凹凸的山道蹒跚而行。
Due to the construction of the Maoxi highway, a lot of sediment has accumulated, resulting in the suspension of the river section below Maotai Ferry. We had to squeeze into the old jeep and trudge through the bumpy mountain roads.
来到合马与沙滩的交界处，因山路坍塌无法通车，我们遂下车步行。哪知沙滩乡政府领导一行数人早在此恭候多时。一番握手寒暄后，大伙便谈笑着浩荡前进。突然，有人惊呼：看，那是什么？
When we came to the junction of Hema town and Longsheng Beach, the road was bocked by collapse, so we got off and walked. We were surprised to find that several leaders of the beach township government had been waiting here for a long time. After shaking hands and exchanging pleasantries, we were laughing and moving forward. Suddenly, someone exclaimed: look, what is that?
我们走拢细瞧：原来，右边因新修公路而炸开的悬崖上，赫然镶嵌着一枚足球大的褐青色蛋化石！
We walked closer and looked carefully: on our right side, there was a soccer big brown and green egg fossil in the blasting cliff due to the construction of new road.
通行的郑书记一脸郑重地告诉大家：这极有可能是恐龙蛋化石——因为云贵高原在亿万年以前曾是一片汪洋。
Secretary Zheng who has been with us all the way, told everyone with a solemn face: this was most likely a fossilized dinosaur egg - because the Yunnan-Guizhou plateau was once a vast ocean before hundreds of millions years ago.
他用手指着脚下同样的一个蛋化石说，像这样的石蛋目前已发现三枚，至于是否是真恐龙蛋化石还有待专家进一步考证。
He pointed at an egg fossil at his feet and said that three stone eggs like this have been found so far, and whether they were real dinosaur egg fossils was still to be further verified by experts.
说着，他似有所悟，便带着我们走进一户农家，参观去年12月初当地农民在这附近的山上挖土时偶然发现的一枚海龟化石。
With that, he seemed to think of something and took us into a farmhouse to see a turtle fossil found a local farmer by chance while digging in the hills near here in early December last year.
呈现在我们面前的绝对是一个体积近1米的巨龟化石，龟背的纹路清晰可辨，头尾界限分明，我甚至能想象它在古老的海洋里如何摆动庞大而笨拙的身躯顽强潜行的滑稽模样……
What we saw in front of us was definitely a giant turtle fossil with a volume of nearly 1 meter, the lines on the back of the turtle were clearly discernible, the head and tail were clearly defined, and I could even imagine how its huge and clumsy body stubbornly dived in the ancient ocean in a comical way ......
到沙滩时已日薄西山了，采风团在当地乡民的夹道欢迎和横幅鞭炮的浓喧重染中开进乡政府办公大楼。站在高高的石阶上俯瞰，整个乡镇沐浴在现代文明的光辉之中，青砖瓦舍、粉墙吊灯、电视电话——与上游的刀耕火种、秉烛而息、自给自足的蒙昧生活已俨然有别。
篝火再一次升起来，整个沙滩乡一下子沸腾起来，成百上千的村民里三层外三层将我们明星般围起来，欢乐的歌声与笑声一浪高过一浪。
When I arrived at the beach, it was already sunset, and the group came into the township office building with the welcome of the local villagers lined the streets and the bustle of banners and firecrackers. When we standing on the high stone steps overlooking the entire township, it bathed in the glory of modern civilization, title-roofed house built by black brick, pink wall droplight, television and telephone - it was different from the fatuous life in the upstream of the “slash-and-burn” farming method, holding candles when resting and self-sufficient life way. The campfire rose again, and the whole beach township boiled up at once. We are surrounded by hundreds of villagers, layers after layers, with waves of joyful singing and laughter, as if we were celebrities, with waves of joyful singing and laughter.
此时，天空骤然下起铜钱般的雨点来，淳朴的山里人冒着大雨，依然兴致勃勃地围观者，没有哪一个肯主动离开。刹那间，心被这份浓浓的乡情感动了，和着当地著名歌手“老解放”嘶哑而悠远的山歌，我们激动地打着拍子，泪水和雨水混在一起，恣意纵横着……
At this time, the sky suddenly rained and the raindrops as large as coppers, the rustic mountain people braved the rain, but still watched us with great interest, none of them willing to leave. In a flash, my heart was touched by the strong feelings of the countryside, with the hoarse and distant mountain song sang by the famous local singer "Lao Jiefang" , we excitedly beat the beat, tears and rain mixed together, wantonly crossed our faces ......
沙滩，一个让人难以忘怀的地方！
The beach, an unforgettable place!
遥望两河口
Looking at the Lianghekou from afar
6月17日，采风最后一天。
June 17, the last day of collecting.
清早起来，美丽婉约的沙滩乡笼罩在水晶的雨帘中。
When I got up early in the morning, the beautiful and graceful beach township was shrouded in a crystal curtain of rain.
冒着滂沱大雨，一拨人乘上一艘古老而诗意的木舟，向终点两河口漂去。
Braving the pouring rain, a group of people boarded an old and poetic wooden boat and drifted towards the end of the Lianghekou.
尽管时值盛夏，此时却寒意顿起，豆大的雨点砸在脸上，一身短打的我们冷得嘴唇哆嗦却依然笑声爽朗。木船剧烈颠簸着，滔天浊浪一个接一个迎面泼下，令人分不清哪是雨水哪是河水，整个世界像一只失控的陀螺在巨大的漩涡中高速转动且逐渐消遁……
Although it was the time of summer, we still felt so cold suddenly, and the bean-sized raindrops fell on our faces, making us shiver but still laugh. The wooden boat jolted violently, the turbulent waves one after another to splash down, and we could not distinguish the rain and the river respectively. the whole world was like a runaway gyroscope in the huge whirlpool of high-speed rotation and gradually disappeared ......
船到十里长滩已不能再漂，否则随时有粉身碎骨的危险！此处滩长水险，历史上的船难多在此发生，所以即使是最有经验的船夫也不敢贸然行进。一伙人弃船上岸，又抖擞精神，沿初成雏形的茅习公路继续向前。
The boat could no longer sail when it arrived the Shili Beach , or there was a danger of crashing into pieces at any time! This beach is long and dangerous, many shipwrecks happened here in history, so even the most experienced boatman also dare not rashly march. We abandoned the boat and came ashore, then we gathered our energy, along the fledgling Maoxi road to continue forward.
穿过马桑坪，吴公岩便遥遥相望了。
After passing through Masangping,we could see Wu Gongyan in a distant place.
站在离滔滔赤水河数十丈高的沿河公路远望，对岸壁立千仞、彤红如血的摩天巨崖上，一条足迹斑斑的古盐道盘山蜿蜒而至，在参天的古木与荒芜的岁月中，无言地诉说着赤水河昔日的荣辱兴衰与历史的沧桑变幻。
When we stood at the highway along the river that dozens of feet high away from the Chishui River , and looked far away, the other side of the wall of a thousand feet, red as blood on the giant cliffs, a footprint of the ancient salt road winded around the mountain in the opposite giant cliffs that was a thousand feet high and red as blood, wordlessly told the rise and fall of the Chishui River in the past and the vicissitudes of history in the ancient towering trees and barren years.
吴公岩因吴登举修浚赤水河的壮举而得名。贵州自古无盐，仁怀自清乾隆元年（公元1726年）起，便成为川盐入黔的四大口岸之一，号称仁岸。川盐便从四川二郎陆运30里到仁怀马桑坪（最先在沙滩，后改在马桑坪）入库，再由马桑坪溯赤水河而上至茅台，最后由茅台陆运至遵义、贵阳两地。由于赤水河仁怀段河道狭窄，滩多水急，泥沙淤积，无法通航，为了疏通河道，便于水路盐运，清乾隆8年（公元1743年），贵州总督张广泗在民间举贤征工。是时，家住二郎里的吴登举立誓承修，历尽艰辛，苦战五个月，终于大功告成。张总督亲临视察，大喜过望，欲封其官，但登举坚辞不受，总督便题“忠耿过人”四字相赠，并赐名吴公岩渡口，由他收费，以赏其劳。登举死后，府、县在两河口处建祠塑像，以示纪念，并赐“功成不朽”、“身死名存”两块匾。今其祠虽毁，尚有碑迹可考。
Wu Gongyan was named after Wu Dengju's feat of dredging the Chishui River. There was no salt since ancient times in Guizhou Province. Since the first year of qianlong (1726 AD) in the Qing Dynasty, Renhuai has been one of the four major ports of entry for Sichuan salt into Guizhou, known as the Ren Bank. The salt was transported 30 miles by land from Erlang in Sichuan to Masangping in Renhuai (first at the beach, but later at Masangping), then from Masangping up the Chishui River to Maotai, and finally transported by land from Maotai to Zunyi and Guiyang. Due to the narrow channel of the Renhuai section of the Chishui River, there are many beaches with rapid water, and the sediment deposition made it impossible to navigate, so in order to dredge the river and facilitate salt transportation by water, Zhang Guangshi, the governor of Guizhou, recruited sage workers in the private sector in the 8th year of the Qianlong era (1743 AD). At that time, Wu Dengju, who lived in Erlangli, vowed to undertake the repair, and after five months of hard work and hardship, finally accomplished a great success. Governor Zhang personally inspected, overjoyed, and wanted to seal his official, but Dengju refused to accept, the governor then inscribed "loyalty Geng over people" the four words to give, and gave the name Wu Gong Yan ferry, by his fees, to reward his labor. After Dengju's death, the government and the county built a shrine and statue at the Lianghekou to commemorate his death, and gave "immortality for his achievements" and "life died but the name is imperishable" the two plaques. Although the shrine was destroyed, there are still monuments to be found.
此刻，本次采风团秘书长、《仁怀报》总编辑陈富强面色庄重地跪在地上，对着这有着深厚文化积淀的吴公岩虔诚地三拜。
At this moment, Chen Fuqiang, the secretary-general of this tour and the editor-in-chief of Renhuai Newspaper, knelt down on the ground with a solemn face and paid three respectful homage to Wu Gongyan, which has deep cultural deposits.
这位三十出头的硬汉子戚然告诉我们，他是赤水河四代船工的亲血脉，在8岁那年，其父就是在吴公岩下因船难而壮烈殉职的——所以，每次路过这里，他都要跪拜三次，以寄托他对父亲及成千上万个像父亲那样优秀善良坚强不屈的赤水河儿女的无限哀思无限崇敬之情。
The hard man in his early thirties told us that he was a bloodline of four generations of boatmen on the Chishui River, and his father was killed in a martyrdom under Wu Gong Yan when he was 8 years old - so every time he passed by here, he had to kneel three times to express his infinite sorrow and admiration to his father and thousands of excellent, kind, strong and unyielding people lived near Chishui River like his father.
再往前数里，则是仁怀与习水的交界处——两河口了。极目望去，群山连绵云烟袅袅，桐梓河宛若一支闪亮的银针，将黄绸般的赤水河连衣钩住，向长江之口联袂飘去。二郎滩和习酒镇的美酒此时只管扑鼻而来，令人如痴似醉忘了归途……
A few miles further, it was the junction of Renhuai and Xishui -- Lianghekou. Looking at the mountains, rolling clouds of smoke, Tongzi River was like a shining silver needle, hooked the Chishui River that like yellow silk, to the mouth of the Yangtze River to float together. At this time, the fragrance of wine in Erlang Beach and Xijiu town just puffed nose, people were intoxicated and forgot the back way ......
时针正好指着下午4时11分。采风团全体成员在迎风飘扬的红旗下傲然而立，以梦幻般的两河口为背景，摄下了最后也是最有意义的一幅合影，结束了97中国旅游年“赤水河之旅”的全部采风活动。
The clock hand was pointing at 4:11 pm. All the members of the group stood proudly under the waving red flag, with the fantastic Lianghekou as the background, took the last and most meaningful group photo, ended all the collecting activities of the 97 China Tourism Year "Chishui River Tour" .
有行家预测，二十一世纪全球旅游的重心将转移到生态旅游上来。所谓生态旅游，是指没有任何人工污染与破坏的原生态自然环境的旅游。由此，我们是否可以这样断言：赤水河中上游以其原始奇特的天然风光、蛮荒古朴的民俗民风、凝重淳厚的人文景观、丰富多彩的旅游资源，将不可避免地成为黔北下个世纪旅游的焦点？
Some connoisseurs predicted that the focus of global tourism in the 21st century will shift to ecotourism. The eco-tourism refers to the tourism of the original natural environment without any artificial pollution and destruction. Thus, can we assert that the upper and middle reaches of the Chishui River will inevitably become the focal point of tourism in the next century in the north of Guizhou with its primitive and peculiar natural scenery, barbaric and simple folk customs and folkways, and rich and colorful cultural landscape and tourism resources?
